Discovering Adventure Destination Ladakh


Today, about 18000 tourists visit Ladakh every year. Flanked by two mountain ranges, it is a popular destination for adventure tourism. The breathtaking scenery provides the ideal setting for trekking, white-water rafting and wildlife tours. The well-preserved cultural landscape makes Ladakh even more attractive. Ladakh, meaning "land of high passes" in Urdu, is a region in the Indian administered state of Jammu and Kashmir between the Kunlun mountain range to the north and the Himalayas to the south. It is inhabited by people of Indo-Aryan and Tibetan descent and is one of the most sparsely populated regions in the area. Ladakh is renowned for its picturesque mountain beauty and culture. It is also described as "Little Tibet" as it has been strongly influenced by Tibetan culture. In the past Ladakh gained importance from its strategic location at the crossroads of important trade routes, but since the Chinese authorities closed the borders with Tibet and Central Asia in the 1960s, international trade has dwindled. Since 1974 however the Indian Government has successfully encouraged tourism in Ladakh. Here is an account of the land of high passes where the Earth embraces the sky.

The Best Way to Get to Ladakh

Ladakh was historically at the crossroads of Central Asia and South Asia when the Silk Road was in use. The sixty-day journey connecting Amritsar and Yarkand via eleven passes was frequently undertaken by traders until the mid-19th century. The traditional routes however are no longer able to be used since the Ladakh-Tibet border has been sealed by the Chinese government. Similarly, there is currently no border crossing between Ladakh and Pakistan. The only two land routes to Ladakh currently in use are from Srinagar and Manali. The 434 km Srinagar- Leh road, which remains open for traffic from early June to November, is the primary land route to Ladakh. The Jammu and Kashmir State Road Transport Corporation (J&K SRTC) operates regular bus services between Srinagar and Leh on this route with an overnight halt at Kargil. Taxis, cars and jeeps are also available at Srinagar for the journey. Groups can charter buses for Leh, Kargil or Padum (Zanskar) from the J&K SRTC at Srinagar. Travellers from Srinagar start their journey from Sonamarg, over the Zoji la pass (3450 m) via Dras and Kargil (2750 m) passing through Namika la (3700 m) and Fatu la (4100 m). This has been the traditional gateway to Ladakh since historical times. With the rise of militancy in Kashmir however, the main corridor to the area has shifted from the Srinagar-Kargil-Leh route via Zoji la to the high altitude Manali-Leh highway from Himachal Pradesh. The Manali-Leh road weaves in and out among the mighty snow-clad peaks of the Western Himalayas over a stretch of 450 km. The road is open from mid-July to mid-October every year, depending on weather conditions.

Manali is the starting point of this dramatic journey and Rohtang Pass (3978 m), 51 km away from Manali, is the first important milestone on this route as it is the gateway to the Lahaul and Spiti valleys. On its way to Keylong, the world's highest 'jeepable' road winds its way through breathtaking mountain views via the Rohtang Pass, Gramphoo, Kokhsar, Sissu, Gondla and Tandi. One can also reach Kaza, the main town of the Lahaul and Spiti valleys. The road moves onward to the Bara Lachha pass (4892 m), 73 km from Keylong. Beyond this steep pass lies Sarchu in the adjoining state of Jammu and Kashmir. The route now enters the highest regions of Ladakh. A camping ground in Zanskar, Phalang-danda (giant rock), marks the boundary between Lahaul and Zanskar. Sarchu has wide open places and treks to Phirtse la starts from here. Just 54 km ahead of Sarchu the road crosses Tsarap Chu over a bridge. Then it climbs up to Lachalang la (5059 m). Nearly 87 km from Lachalang la is Tanglang la (5325 m) - the highest point on this road. This pass is the most difficult to negotiate. By crossing this pass one enters Central Ladakh. 60 km ahead of Tanglang la is Upshi - a junction on the Indus - and 50 km beyond Upshi is Leh.

H.P. SRTC and J&K SRTC operate Deluxe and Ordinary bus services between Manali and Leh. The bus journey between Leh and Manali takes about 19 hours or two days with an overnight halt in camps at Sarchu or Pang. Gypsy and jeep taxis are also available both at Manali and Leh. There are approximately 1800 km of roads in Ladakh of which 800 km are surfaced. The Manali-Leh-Srinagar road makes up approximately half of the road network with the remainder being offshoots of it. Buses run from Leh to the surrounding villages. Trucks often stop for hitchhikers who are usually expected to pay half the bus fare. Ladakh is criss-crossed by a complex network of mountain trails which, even today provides the only link to many of the valleys, villages and high pastures. It is possible to trek from one end of Ladakh to the other avoiding motor roads almost entirely. At an altitude of 3500 m, Leh is the capital of Ladakh. There is one airport in Leh and airline services operate regular scheduled flights to Leh from Delhi, Chandigarh, Jammu and Srinagar. Leh is a special and fascinating destination. The rugged terrain of the mountains is somehow softened and transformed by the unique beauty of its surroundings. The towering mountains reach up to a clear blue sky as the rushing waters of an icy river surge down from a glacial height. Hearing the rhythmic chants of Buddhist monks in an ancient monastery makes time appear to stand still. The local inhabitants are very pleasant and hospitable to everybody. It is a place untouched by crowds, traffic and other assaults on your basic peace of mind.

No special permit is required to visit most of Ladakh, including the towns of Leh and Kargil. Permits required for particularly secure areas such as Tsomoriri, Tsokar, Pangong Lakes, Dhahanu and Nubra Valley are easily obtained in Leh from registered travel agencies. All foreigners are required to register at Drass, Rumtse and Sarchu if they are travelling by road. Those travelling by air are able to register themselves at the airport. Be sure to carry at least six photocopies of your permit while travelling to submit at the checkpoints.

The Best Time to Visit Ladakh Ladakh is open for tourism throughout the year, while the best period for tours and trekking is from June to October. Most trekking routes are closed after November due to heavy snowfall at high passes. Exceptions include the Liker to Kahltsey trek and the Chadar trek. Temperatures in the summer (June to September) can reach 30°C. In late December and January the temperature plummets to -20°C. Annual rainfall is 6".

The Best Clothes to Wear in Ladakh Shirt and shorts are adequate during the daytime but in the evening one needs a jacket or pullover. While trekking above 4000 m, warm clothes are a must. There is occasional rain or snowfall in early June so it is advisable to always carry a windcheater or raincoat. Good waterproof shoes are needed while trekking and extra pairs of shoes and sandals are always handy. A high-quality spacious rucksack is required to carry your items of use as well as your sleeping bag.

The Best Places to See in Ladakh Nubra Valley (the valley of flowers) is situated 150 km north of Leh. The average altitude of the valley is 3050 m above sea level. The common way to access this valley is to travel over the Khardung la (5600 m) from Leh where one will first encounter the Shyok Valley. To enter the Nubra valley, one must cross the Shyok river via a small bridge and pass through a Military Checkpoint. Non-locals require an "Inner Line" permit (easily obtained in Leh) to pass. The Sasser Pass and the famous Karakoram Pass lie to the northwest of the valley which connects Nubra with Xinjiang. The Nubra Valley is home to the small towns of Sumur and Panamik. Sumur has a Buddhist gompa (monastery) while Panamik is noted for its hot springs. Most of the inhabitants are of mixed Tibetan and Central Asian origin and speak varieties of the Balti language. The beautiful village of Baigdandu is located in the valley. There is a marked presence of people with startling blue eyes, auburn hair and rosy cheeks as against the typical mongoloid features of the Ladakhis. Local lore has it that they were a Greek tribe who came in search of Jesus Christ's tomb and eventually settled here. Baigdandu is also known for the goats that give you the famous Pashmina shawls. Two notable villages in the Shyok Valley are Diskit and Hundar. Diskit is home to a busy and dramatically positioned gompa. Hundar is one of those rare places on Earth where you can see the splendid beauty of a desert (complete with sand dunes and two-humped Bactrian camels), rolling hills and snow peaks all within a few kilometres of each other. The gompas of Ladakh are what give the region its unique beauty. They may be dedicated to either the Mahayana or Hinayana practice paths of Buddhism. The Head Lama is called 'Kushak' meaning reincarnation.

Hemis Monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist gompa of the Drukpa lineage. Situated 45 km from Leh in the town of Ladakh, the monastery was built in 1672 by Senge Namgyal, a Ladakhi king. Hemis is the largest and one of the oldest gompas in Ladakh. Shey Monastery is situated 15 km from Leh. It was once the residence of the royal family and was constructed by the first king of Ladakh. Thikse Gompa is a Buddhist monastery in the Indus Valley located 25 km east of Leh. Noted for its resemblance to the Potala Palace in Lhasa, the main point of interest is the Maitreya (Future Buddha) Temple inaugurated by the Dalai Lama in 1980. It is also noted for its collection of thangkas and other Buddhist wall paintings. Founded in the 15th century, this 12-storey gompa has 60 lamas in residence, plus a nunnery and a total of 10 temples. It is a slow ascent up to the gompa as the devotee pauses to spin the copper prayer wheels. Inside each copper cylinder are prayers and as you turn the wheel clockwise you are reciting these prayers and earning good karma.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

1. Acute mountain sickness can occur to anyone at an altitude of 3050 m above sea level. Common symptoms of acute mountain sickness are headaches, disturbed sleep, loss of appetite, nausea, coughing, irregular breathing, breathlessness and lack of concentration. As Leh is situated at an altitude of 3500 m, be sure to rest for the first 36 hours after your arrival to properly acclimatize yourself. 2. Take water purification pills with you. Dzomsa Laundry sells high pressure boiled water for Rs. 7 per litre. Bring you own water container. 3. Plastic is officially banned in Ladakh. Do not use plastic bags and always separate and properly dispose off litter while trekking. 4. Do not disturb wild life while trekking. Be aware of the highly sensitive ecology and the economy of the geographical and cultural landscape.